In la Concha de Perla (the Pearl Shell) I like to swim laps above an eagle ray pair that lives at the bottom. The tide sank too low yesterday for turtle-sighting, and all the tourists were still at breakfast. Alone, I couldn't help but think of sharks. A man appeared on the dock to save me from swimming by myself.
Tengo miedo! I laughed. I'm afraid!
Tenga confianza, he said. Have confidence.
We swam to the mangrove-covered rocks and back. One of the rays passed under us with his galactic night back and evil tail. Apparently they're only dangerous if harassed, or disturbed while mating. The man, I learned, is a famous artist and sculptor in the Galapagos, where he has lived for 26 years.
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