When rivers of lava harden on the outside, they form tunnels. Thanks to this bit of geology magic, there is a wild labyrinth of rock off the coast of Isabela. You have to brave rough seas for an hour in a small boat and your captain has to time the entry to the site to avoid being flipped by crashing waves (flips do occur), but it's worth it.
We swam with turtles and rays through the underwater windows.
And on land, two boobies did their mating dance, which involves stamping around, spreading wings, and whistling through beaks. They pretend not to notice each other, but they're totally into it.
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